August 20th - Day 35 - Rawlins, WY to Sweetwater Station, WY - 85 miles
I woke up to a strong cross/headwind blowing across the open expanses of Wyoming. The day started into the wind going up a long, tiring climb with absolutely no cover to slow the wind. During this climb I had a lot of time to scan the roadside and admire all of the litter that seems especially prevalent on this stretch of road. By watching the roadside flotsam I acquired a new friend. I spotted a McDonald's kid's meal teddy bear at the edge of the pavement and quickly stopped to scoop him up. I've attached him to the rear of my trunk bag and named him NASMART because he's doing the TransAm looking backward.
Once I dropped down from the initial climb I entered a vast flat plain circled by mountains in the distance on all sides. It was beautiful, but punishing as the wind whipped unimpeded toward me. the rest of the morning was similarly flat, with thankfully a few ridges in the afternoon to break up the wind. I crossed the continental divide twice more today, which is a bit maddening as I want to simply head west and less north.
In the afternoon the wind died down and then changed directions. The light wind becamce a tailwind that helped me average about 21 miles per hour for the last 30 miles of the day into Sweetwater Station. We camped tonight at the Mormon Handcart Historic Site - Sixth Crossing. The site is a museum commemorating the emigration of one particular group of Mormons that traveled the Mormon Trail toward the Rocky Mountains. The group became caught in a blizzard after starting out too late in the season and suffered many deaths and injuries. The missionaries at the site recall many stories of the Mormon Trail with amazing detail. As I ride I am reminded of the hardship faced by others along this same route and am thankful for the luxuries with which I am equipped.
Quality Water Means Quality Life
1.2 billion people do not have access to clean water. Help others avoid the choice between thirst or disease.
As we passed through the Ozark Mountains, among Missouri scenic rivers, we came to a gorgeous little spot called "Two Rivers." At this convergence of the Jacks Fork and Current rivers, the silt heavy rapids of the Current meet the clear calm of the Jacks Fork river and one can actually see the divide between the two. I couldn't help but think of the divide between our access to clean water and the lack thereof in the villages of rural Ghana.
Troy and I consume on average, about 12 to 20 (20 oz) bottles of water daily. That's 12 to 20 times per day that, unlike the people in rural Ghana, Troy and I avoid illness without even realizing it. Regardless of how many miles we ride, we have no doubt that stopping anywhere along the road for water will be easy and risk-free.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Boiling Ham and Cynthia Rocks
August 19th - Day 34 - Saratoga, WY to Rawlins, WY - 44 miles
This morning we went into downtown Saratoga to the city pool and hot sulphur springs. The springs are free of charge and open year round. They have three progressively cooler pools setup: one concrete pool built around the main source spring, one at the outflow of that pool as it flows into the river blocked off by stones, and a third cooler pool that is nearly the temperature of the river water (very cold). The water enters the hottest pool at about 110-120 degrees. We started out in the medium heat pool where we talked with some other people that were on vacation and just passing through. We then worked our way into the hot pool, any amount of motion is painful, and moving in and out is best done slowly. I eventually got in enough to dip my head underwater, once. Cynthia met a woman yesterday who has been coming to the springs every day for the past 60-some years and swears by its healing powers. I'm not so sure about healing. Feeling much like a boiled ham, I was glad to get my now ruby flesh out of the pool. "But the vasodilation is so relaxing" Blah blah blah.
Cynthia rode the whole day today. It's been really great seeing her able to do long miles without any knee pain. Of course, we have been really saddened at times that she was unable to do all of the miles with me. I was glad to assume the support driver role, allowing her to enjoy this trip from the biker's point of view.
The route today took us onto a true interstate (I-80) for the first time this whole trip. It was only 13 miles, but it's strange riding where you would normally be prohibited. Most of the roads that we ride on have been normal, country roads with speed limits averaging around 55mph. Cynthia and I were anxious about it, but she didn't have any problems until she came upon road construction that dropped the traffic down to 55miles per hour in a single lane with a concrete barrier on one side and cones on the other. It would have been insane for her to try to make it through (and would have nearly stopped traffic), so I picked her up in the car and took her to the exit past the construction.
We camped overnight in Western Hills Campground/RV Park in Rawlins. (We missed out on playing putt-putt golf there)
This morning we went into downtown Saratoga to the city pool and hot sulphur springs. The springs are free of charge and open year round. They have three progressively cooler pools setup: one concrete pool built around the main source spring, one at the outflow of that pool as it flows into the river blocked off by stones, and a third cooler pool that is nearly the temperature of the river water (very cold). The water enters the hottest pool at about 110-120 degrees. We started out in the medium heat pool where we talked with some other people that were on vacation and just passing through. We then worked our way into the hot pool, any amount of motion is painful, and moving in and out is best done slowly. I eventually got in enough to dip my head underwater, once. Cynthia met a woman yesterday who has been coming to the springs every day for the past 60-some years and swears by its healing powers. I'm not so sure about healing. Feeling much like a boiled ham, I was glad to get my now ruby flesh out of the pool. "But the vasodilation is so relaxing" Blah blah blah.
Cynthia rode the whole day today. It's been really great seeing her able to do long miles without any knee pain. Of course, we have been really saddened at times that she was unable to do all of the miles with me. I was glad to assume the support driver role, allowing her to enjoy this trip from the biker's point of view.
The route today took us onto a true interstate (I-80) for the first time this whole trip. It was only 13 miles, but it's strange riding where you would normally be prohibited. Most of the roads that we ride on have been normal, country roads with speed limits averaging around 55mph. Cynthia and I were anxious about it, but she didn't have any problems until she came upon road construction that dropped the traffic down to 55miles per hour in a single lane with a concrete barrier on one side and cones on the other. It would have been insane for her to try to make it through (and would have nearly stopped traffic), so I picked her up in the car and took her to the exit past the construction.
We camped overnight in Western Hills Campground/RV Park in Rawlins. (We missed out on playing putt-putt golf there)
Monday, August 31, 2009
Wildlife welcome to Wyoming
August 18th - Day 33 - Walden, CO to Saratoga, WY - 68 miles
Acting on a tip from the park manager (who turned off the sprinklers for us last night) we set out early this chilly morning to find some moose. He told us that the town transplanted about 25 moose to the area years ago and now the population was kept around 600 individuals. We went into the Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge (on a different road than I rode yesterday) and saw mule deer, hawks, ground squirrels, and lots of cows, but no moose. It wasn't until we asked a park ranger where the best viewing was that we found an area that moose frequent. We walked along a boardwalk and spotted a bull moose about 50 yards away. He was apparently accustomed to humans and just stood quietly behind some brush. We were both really excited to see a wild moose, and the day just kept getting better!!
Once I finally started to ride I faced a relentless headwind that blew down the valley of the North Platte River. At one point, when I was making slow progress, Cynthia came to find me (no cellphone service) and stopped while I refueled and filled up on water. While I was resting, I happened to spot a large bird flying over distant hills that I thought looked like a bald eagle. Sure enough, we grabbed the binoculars and we were certain that I was right. We watched it soar for a long time over the cliffs before it raised up and dropped down the other side of the hills. As we were watching the eagle, we also spotted pronghorn antelope in the flat below the hills. A couple of miles I found another bald eagle sitting on a telephone pole no more than 30 yards away from the road. Cynthia drove up in time to see it and watch it briefly before it flew away, out of sight. Simply amazing.
Later, Cynthia found me toward the end of the ride and told me to hurry up, because she had found the real home of the free hot sulphur springs in Saratoga. About eight miles outside of town, I saw yet another eagle, this one closer than the last two. I came over a hill, with a butte on my right and it swooped up over the butte, nearly landed on the road, and then flew over my head and back over the butte. It was close enough that I could hear the "whoosh" of its wings as it flapped. I love this ride.
Cynthia had a different close encounter with wildlife today as she nearly hit a large male pronghorn antelope that ran across the road in front of her. She had to slam on the brakes and swerve to avoid hitting it. Thankfully both parties walked away only rattled.
Once we found each other in Saratoga, we headed to the Saratoga Lake Campground to set up camp late in the evening.
Acting on a tip from the park manager (who turned off the sprinklers for us last night) we set out early this chilly morning to find some moose. He told us that the town transplanted about 25 moose to the area years ago and now the population was kept around 600 individuals. We went into the Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge (on a different road than I rode yesterday) and saw mule deer, hawks, ground squirrels, and lots of cows, but no moose. It wasn't until we asked a park ranger where the best viewing was that we found an area that moose frequent. We walked along a boardwalk and spotted a bull moose about 50 yards away. He was apparently accustomed to humans and just stood quietly behind some brush. We were both really excited to see a wild moose, and the day just kept getting better!!
Once I finally started to ride I faced a relentless headwind that blew down the valley of the North Platte River. At one point, when I was making slow progress, Cynthia came to find me (no cellphone service) and stopped while I refueled and filled up on water. While I was resting, I happened to spot a large bird flying over distant hills that I thought looked like a bald eagle. Sure enough, we grabbed the binoculars and we were certain that I was right. We watched it soar for a long time over the cliffs before it raised up and dropped down the other side of the hills. As we were watching the eagle, we also spotted pronghorn antelope in the flat below the hills. A couple of miles I found another bald eagle sitting on a telephone pole no more than 30 yards away from the road. Cynthia drove up in time to see it and watch it briefly before it flew away, out of sight. Simply amazing.
Later, Cynthia found me toward the end of the ride and told me to hurry up, because she had found the real home of the free hot sulphur springs in Saratoga. About eight miles outside of town, I saw yet another eagle, this one closer than the last two. I came over a hill, with a butte on my right and it swooped up over the butte, nearly landed on the road, and then flew over my head and back over the butte. It was close enough that I could hear the "whoosh" of its wings as it flapped. I love this ride.
Cynthia had a different close encounter with wildlife today as she nearly hit a large male pronghorn antelope that ran across the road in front of her. She had to slam on the brakes and swerve to avoid hitting it. Thankfully both parties walked away only rattled.
Once we found each other in Saratoga, we headed to the Saratoga Lake Campground to set up camp late in the evening.
No FREE sulphur springs in Hot Sulphur Springs. Boo.
August 17th - Day 32 - Hot Sulphur Springs, CO to Walden, CO - 61 miles
The late night last night and cold this morning kept us tucked in our tent extra long this morning. We had heard that there were free hot sulphur springs in town, but our searching and inquiries this morning only lead us to the resort near town that definitely was not free.
Dejected, I got on the bike and headed out. I rode over the continental divide again at 9,621 ft, but beyond that the road was unremarkable, just long rolling hills and a headwind. I rode through the Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge this afternoon. I hoped to see pronghorn antelope or bison. I saw some hawks, but beyond that there were only large pastures of grazing cows in this wildlife refuge. It was very exciting to ride into Walden and see that they call themselves the "Moose Viewing Capital of the World". I looked intently, but didn't see any moose. I gratefully pulled into camp in Walden city park and found that Cynthia was already making pasta for dinner. I'm truly spoiled.
The late night last night and cold this morning kept us tucked in our tent extra long this morning. We had heard that there were free hot sulphur springs in town, but our searching and inquiries this morning only lead us to the resort near town that definitely was not free.
Dejected, I got on the bike and headed out. I rode over the continental divide again at 9,621 ft, but beyond that the road was unremarkable, just long rolling hills and a headwind. I rode through the Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge this afternoon. I hoped to see pronghorn antelope or bison. I saw some hawks, but beyond that there were only large pastures of grazing cows in this wildlife refuge. It was very exciting to ride into Walden and see that they call themselves the "Moose Viewing Capital of the World". I looked intently, but didn't see any moose. I gratefully pulled into camp in Walden city park and found that Cynthia was already making pasta for dinner. I'm truly spoiled.
August 16th - Day 31 - Fairplay, CO to Hot Sulphur Springs, CO - 95 miles
Cynthia and I started out riding together today. The route went over Hoosier Pass, which at 11,542ft is the highest point on the TransAmerican Trail. Both of us wanted to experience the Pass, so after a long, tiring climb we went over together. I turned back and descended down the way I had come to the car which we parked at the base of the climb while Cynthia continued down the other side into Breckenridge, where I continued biking solo. I met Cynthia 14 miles later in Silverthorne for lunch.
Cynthia has been craving Chipotle for a long time, so finding one there was a boon. Unfortunately, the long climb and long lunch today would have severe consequences later in the day. Later in the evening, I met Cynthia again in a small diner where she was able to get free wifi and do laundry nearby. I stopped only shortly as I it was already nearly 7pm and I had another 17 miles to do for the day. I rode hard trying to peak my exertion the whole way, but still failed to outrun the fading daylight. I rode the last few miles through canyons so dark that I had to intently watch the white line to know my position. Though I have lights and reflectors I still pulled off the road whenever a car approached from behind. That was probably the biggest risk I've had to take thus far.
To add to the fun, the town we were staying in had few road lights, so I waited at a gas station for Cynthia to arrive to find our camp for the night. The town allows camping along the river road, which is in poor condition and not welcoming, to say the least, in the dark of night. It got cold again tonight and we found refuge in sleeping bags as quickly as possible.
Cynthia and I started out riding together today. The route went over Hoosier Pass, which at 11,542ft is the highest point on the TransAmerican Trail. Both of us wanted to experience the Pass, so after a long, tiring climb we went over together. I turned back and descended down the way I had come to the car which we parked at the base of the climb while Cynthia continued down the other side into Breckenridge, where I continued biking solo. I met Cynthia 14 miles later in Silverthorne for lunch.
Cynthia has been craving Chipotle for a long time, so finding one there was a boon. Unfortunately, the long climb and long lunch today would have severe consequences later in the day. Later in the evening, I met Cynthia again in a small diner where she was able to get free wifi and do laundry nearby. I stopped only shortly as I it was already nearly 7pm and I had another 17 miles to do for the day. I rode hard trying to peak my exertion the whole way, but still failed to outrun the fading daylight. I rode the last few miles through canyons so dark that I had to intently watch the white line to know my position. Though I have lights and reflectors I still pulled off the road whenever a car approached from behind. That was probably the biggest risk I've had to take thus far.
To add to the fun, the town we were staying in had few road lights, so I waited at a gas station for Cynthia to arrive to find our camp for the night. The town allows camping along the river road, which is in poor condition and not welcoming, to say the least, in the dark of night. It got cold again tonight and we found refuge in sleeping bags as quickly as possible.
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